For my thermodynamics project, I set the depicted components up to measure the total efficiency of charging batteries from the grid then discharging them through an inverter- in my case, 110v-24v-12v(wiring change)-110v-load. This is a small-scale model of a system that would serve a household wherein the grid power is only available for a few hours per day, or intermittently. Many areas in Africa are like this. My efficiency was about 60% total. I haven't yet measured individual component efficiencies yet using the DC powermeter, that is the test in progress while I took this video.
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
RV Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt DC Problem
If you enjoy RVs you already know that a major part of the fun with RVing is getting away from everything. You can just pack up the RV and head out to get some well deserved rest and relaxation without having to deal with the hassles of day-to-day living. These restful, relaxing, memory making RV trips should not be jeopardized by something as simple as a 12-volt electrical problem ruining your vacation.
If you've been RVing for any amount of time you are already aware that a good portion of the devices and accessories in your RV operate off of 12-volt DC power. 12-volt DC or Direct Current is electricity supplied by the RV batteries. DC electricity flows in one direction, from negative to positive. 12-VDC electricity is stored in the RV batteries and supplies power for components, devices and appliances that operate off of 12-volts.
These 12-volt devices include overhead lights, the water pump, vent fans, furnace fan, range hood fan, LP gas leak detectors, stereos, 12-volt TVs and the refrigerator when it's operating in the LP gas mode. When you go camping you rely on these 12-volt items to operate properly, especially if you're dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do when one of these 12-volt items quit working?
For the sake of an example let's say that we are dry camping and our 12-volt water pump quits working.
I am convinced that just about anybody is capable of troubleshooting a 12-VDC problem, and in many cases repairing the problem without it ruining your camping trip. For starters you will need a couple of simple tools to assist you in troubleshooting your RV's 12-volt electrical system.
1). An inexpensive 12-volt test light.
2). A multi-meter that can test for DC power.
Both of these are available at local auto parts stores. You should also keep some electrical tape, various size wire nuts, 12-volt light bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses used in the power distribution box and keep an assortment. If you're aware of any inline fuses used on any of the 12-volt devices keep these on hand too.
Now, try to determine the last time the water pump actually worked. Did you leave the RV for a period of time with the pump on? Is there water in the fresh water holding tank? Were you working on or around something else that could have affected the operation of the water pump? Try to think of all possible scenarios. Something might jar your memory resulting in a quick fix to the problem.
If not, the first step is to verify that the coach battery or batteries are charged enough to supply power to these 12-volt items. There are a couple of ways to perform a quick test on the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check the condition of the coach batteries. To get an accurate reading make sure the RV is not plugged into electricity and turn on a couple of overhead lights to place a small load on the battery. Check the reading at the monitor panel. (If you check the reading at the monitor panel when the RV is plugged in to electricity it will give you fully charged reading) A more accurate method is to test the battery with a multi-meter. Set the meter to read 12-VDC and place the negative test probe on the negative battery terminal and the positive test probe on the positive battery terminal. A fully charged battery will read in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it reads less than 12-volts it is below a 50% state of charge and will need to be charged.
If the battery is fully charged, the next step is to make sure that any battery disconnect switch for the coach battery is turned on. If the battery disconnect switch is on, verify that other 12-volt devices in the RV are operating properly. If there is 12-volt power to the interior of the RV you need to check the fuse for the water pump in the power distribution center. Determine which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are normally labeled) and find a suitable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt power. If the test light only lights on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and try the water pump again. If there was power at both sides of the fuse check for 12-volts at the water pump switch. If there is voltage, and the switch is operating properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.
Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and test the pump again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It's possible for connections to come loose due to excessive vibration. Correct any loose connections and try the pump again. If the pump still doesn't work feel the motor to see if it is hot to the touch. If the motor is hot, a thermal breaker may have been triggered. Allow the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.
If you complete all of these tests and there is 12-volt DC power coming to the water pump motor, and it still doesn't come on, chances are the water pump is bad and it will need to be replaced.
Troubleshooting a 12-volt electrical problem in your RV is not that difficult. Follow the logical path of the device you are troubleshooting and see if you can determine where the problem is. It might be possible for you to save your well deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the RV dealership too.
Note: If you don't feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your RV to a reputable repair center to have it checked out and repaired
Happy Camping!
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
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Friday, December 16, 2011
Make a 12 VDC ability accumulation for RC LiPo Battery Chargers.
Model airplanes and Helicopters come with battery chargers that usually need to be charged off a 12 vdc power supply. They are rather expensive, so the manufacturers do not include them with your models. So if you want to charge your heli and plane batteries in the house instead of in your car, try making your own supply, as I demonstrate here. Thanks to one of my Subscribers, Bryan, (bjudoka1) for putting the idea in my head. I was thinking that you could also run a wire right out of your home pc and use it at the same time.
Thursday, December 8, 2011
Pyramid PSV300 Heavy-Duty 30 Ampere Switching Power Supply
!±8±Pyramid PSV300 Heavy-Duty 30 Ampere Switching Power Supply
Brand : PyramidRate :
Price : $65.51
Post Date : Dec 08, 2011 22:02:41
Usually ships in 1-2 business days
30 amp switching power supply.
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
IZIP Via Lento Electric Bike 2010 archetypal and are for advertise 714-992-5591
Key features : Real Transportation at Speeds up to 15 mph/ 24 km and Range up to 15 - 20 Miles / 24 - 32 km/h with Normal Pedaling (Rider Weight, Rider Input and Terrain Contingent) Laid Back Position Allows Rider to Place Feet on Ground Easily while Seated 24V10Ah Sealed Lead Acid RMB Battery Pack is Quickly Removable from Rack to Allow Charging Anywhere. Easily Add an Optional Second Battery Pack to Double the Range Twist and Go (TAG) + Pedal Assist System (PAS) for Added Versatility Specifications : MOTOR: Exclusive Alloy Shell DC Brushless Geared Hub Motor BATTERY EV; Rated SLA Type, Rear Rack Mounted, 24V / 10Ah Pack, (2) 12V / 10Ah Valve Regulated, Rechargeable CHARGE SYSTEM UL: Listed Currie Smart Charger with LED Status Display CONTROLLER: Exclusive Currie Electro-Drive, 24 Volt Fully Potted with Power Gauge Function TOP SPEED: Up to 20 mph/ 32 km/h (Rider Weight, Rider Input and Terrain Contingent) RANGE: Up to 15 - 20 Miles / 24 - 32 km with Normal Pedaling (Rider Weight, Rider Input and Terrain Contingent). Easily Add an Optional Second Battery Pack to Double the Range DRIVE: Exclusive Currie Geared Hub Motor, Shimano Acera Rear Derailleur, SRAM Grip Shift, 7-Speed Drivetrain BRAKES: Alloy 26" Rims with Stainless Steel Spokes WHEELS: Alloy 26 x 1.75" Rims with Stainless Steel Spokes TIRES: Currie Comfort Tires 26 x 2.00" , Slime Self-Sealing Flat Tire Prevention System HANDLEBAR / STEM : High-Rise Bar and Alloy Adjustable Angle Stem, Dual Density Grips FORKS ...
Friday, December 2, 2011
My Take Part 2
Salt Water into Fuel www.youtube.com 108- 3x6 Solar Cells for Diy Panel Kit Wire Flux Diodes www.ebay.com Coleman Air C440-HV 12v/24v/48v 440A Charge controller www.ebay.com 3000W POWER INVERTER DC-AC 6000 WATT PEAK FOR SOLAR www.ebay.com Free Energy plus a few thoughts www.youtube.com HHO Big Blue - Hydrogen Fuel Cell www.youtube.com HHO Bad To the Bone www.youtube.com solar oven www.youtube.com Principles of Electricity www.youtube.com
Monday, November 28, 2011
Electricity - Watt's it All About?
So, what is electricity? Watt indeed! Even though we may not all be scientists or engineers, it's safe to bet we know a bit about what happens when we turn on the light switch in our office and switch on the computer - the room lights up and the computer starts up. But, how exactly did that happen? We'll do our best to explain the workings of electricity and its terminology.
Electricity - A Defining Moment
Here's a short definition of what electricity is:
Electricity is the flow of electrons through a circuit. The force or pressure of moving electrons in a circuit is measured as voltage. The flow rate of electrons is measured as amperage. The power of a system is measured as watts.
And here's a list of the various components that make up the above definition and help answer "What is electricity?":
A volt is the unit of force (electrical pressure) that causes electrons to flow through a wire. Volts are abbreviated V, or expressed by the symbol E. Electrical pressure is sometimes referred to as the electromotive force (EMF). Some common voltages used in light-duty electrical systems include 12v, 24v, 48v. Most homes use 120v and 240v systems.
An ampere or amp is the unit of electrical current flowing through a wire. Amps are abbreviated A or expressed by the symbol I (for intensity of current). Just as pipe is sized by the rate of water passing through it, a wire is sized according to the rate of electrons (amps) flowing through it. One amp of current flowing for one hour is referred to as an amp-hour (Ah). The term amp-hour is commonly used when describing battery capacity.
What's A Watt>
A watt is a unit of electrical power equivalent to a current of one ampere under a pressure of one volt. Watts indicate the rate at which an appliance uses electrical energy or the rate at which electrical energy is produced. Since consumers need to gauge how much electricity they use, the watt-hour, an electrical unit of energy, is an important measurement. An appliance that consumes electrical energy at a rate of one watt for one hour will have consumed a quantity of electricity equal to one watt-hour.
To calculate watt-hour, there are two things you'll need to know:
* An appliance's rated watts.
* The estimated duration of time the appliance will be operated.
The term watt-hours probably sounds familiar, since utility companies bill their customers for the number of kilowatt-hours consumed. Kilowatt-hours of electricity are equal to 1,000 watt-hours and are abbreviated kWh.
Types of Current
There are two types of electrical current. Alternating current (AC) is electric current in which direction of flow reverses at frequent, regular intervals. This type of current is produced by alternators. In an alternator, a magnetic field causes electrons to flow first in one direction, then in the reverse direction. Electric utility companies supply alternating current.
Direct current (DC) is electric current that flows in one direction. Direct Current is the type of current produced by PV modules and stored in batteries.
What is electricity? We've got an equation for that!
Here we'll sum up what we've just discussed with an equation or two:
Power = Watts (W) = Volts (V) x Amps (A) 1,000W = 1 Kilowatt (kW)
Energy = Watt-hours (Wh) = Watts x Hours 1,000Wh = 1 Kilowatt-hour (kWh)
Amp-hours (Ah) = Amps x Hours
And just to round off - here's an illustration of how watt-hours are calculated:
Problem: How much electrical energy is consumed if a 100-watt light bulb is used for 10 hours?
Solution: 100 watts X 10 hours = 1,000 watt-hours (or 1 kilowatt hour).
Electricity is a major part of most people's everyday lives and is something we generally take for granted, like breathing or eating and sleeping, never really giving any thought to what an amazing thing it is or exactly how it works.
Hopefully, after reading this, you'll be more aware of the miracle that's taking place next time you walk into a dark room and switch the light on.
Saturday, November 26, 2011
12V Lighting Transformer Types You Can't Use With Patio Lighting
Get yourself a good 12v lighting transformer to supply low voltage power to your patio lighting, and all is well. But what is a good 12v transformer? And how do you know that you haven't found an unsuitable type? Allow me to sort this question out for you.
The right type of 12v transformer simply converts mains voltage to 12v - AC or DC. You will know which type you need exactly, by looking at your light bulbs. It should be a rather simple task to find and buy the right type - and it is. Especially, if you shop at the right places, where the goods are clearly labeled and the information is plentiful. But what if you are either in the mood for a little experimentation, out to save some cash - or both? You might come to the conclusion that you have a little junk-box jewel somewhere, that might do the job for no money at all! Wouldn't that be great? And sure - you may in fact have the right type lying around, ready to be put into action as a lighting transformer and it may even be clearly labeled with mains input terminals and 12v output terminals. Piece of cake, right? But get this: Even if it all seems to check out, even if it does put out 12 volts, if it has all the power your need, is fused, etc - it may still be bad news.
I'll get to the point now. If that transformer is either an auto-transformer or a bipolar transformer, you need to make a full stop! An auto-transformer is used in many applications, including automotive uses, but I would never use it for patio lights or other outside lights - or any d.i.y lighting project at all! Why not? Because, unlike regular transformers, in an auto-transformer, there is a direct electrical connection from the mains terminals to the output terminals. This means that you could get electrocuted, even if you touch the supposed low voltage terminals! Never, never, never use these for patio lighting - or anything else for that matter.
The other type you should avoid is the bipolar transformer. This one is not so dangerous to you - but it might harm your lights. A bipolar transformer outputs both a positive voltage and a negative voltage, which means that there are 3 output terminals or pins, instead of just 2 - as on a normal transformer. If those terminals are incorrectly labeled - or not at all - you could accidentally connect your lights to the positive AND the negative pins - instead of the positive and ground, as you should. In this case, you will get the voltage difference between negative and positive, which is twice the rated voltage - 24v instead of 12v. Your lights may be fine with this - and they might not. Don't chance it.
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Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Converted Computer ATX Power Supply to Lab Power Supply Unit
This was brought to my attention by a youtube HHO experimenter. Just wanted to go over the basics of how easy it really is to put together. Harnesses 5V@32Amps, 12V@17Amps power output. Which is considerable if you are building parallel dual series HHO Cell arrangements. tvyrb brought this to my attention. You can find some of his interesting videos here. He uses it in his video. Be sure to check it out! www.youtube.com Also found the link for the original documentation on building the lab power supply unit. www.wikihow.com
Monday, November 21, 2011
Power Bright VC1000W Voltage Transformer 1000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt
!±8± Power Bright VC1000W Voltage Transformer 1000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt
Brand : Power Bright | Rate : | Price : $57.25
Post Date : Nov 21, 2011 15:00:30 | Usually ships in 24 hours
| Price : $57.25Post Date : Nov 21, 2011 15:00:30 | Usually ships in 24 hours
This is a voltage converter or transformer that can be used as a step up transformer in 110/120 volt countries or as a step down transformer in 220/230/240 volt countries. This heavy duty voltage transformer can be used for continuous duty. It will convert voltages of 220-240 volts to 110-120 and will also convert voltages from 110-120 to 220-240 volts.
- 1000 watts continuous power
- On and Off Switch
- 2 Spare Fuses Included
- FREE Grounded Adapter Included
- Heavy Duty
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Pyramid PS21KX 20 Amp Power Supply
!±8± Pyramid PS21KX 20 Amp Power Supply
Rate :
| Price : $75.99 | Post Date : Nov 15, 2011 12:00:15Usually ships in 24 hours
Perfect for Home, Shop and HobbyistInput: 115V AC, 60Hz, 450 Watts Output: 13.8V DC 18 AMP Constant/20 AMP Surge Powers Cellular Phones,12V DC CB Radios, Scanners, HAM Radios, Autosound Systems, etc. Screw Terminal Connectors Crowbar Over-Voltage Protection Electronic Overload Protection w/Auto Reset Short Circuit Thermal Protection Fuse Protected LED Condition Indicators Built-in Cooling Fan Heavy Duty Cabinet Heatsink with Anti-Skid Rubber Feet Dimensions: 11.81-Inch L x 9.05-Inch W x 4.92-Inch H
Friday, November 11, 2011
Transmissor Fm Digital Wireless LCD Digital Life - Qloja
www.qloja.com.br // www.qloja.com.br * Menu simples de usar * Dispensa uso de pilhas * Não atrapalha a troca de marchas * Transmite e reproduz por ondas de radio FM * Músicas no formato MP3 e WMA * Compatível com Pen Drive de até 8 GB * Compatível com cartão de memória SD ou SDHC de até 8 GB * Exibe no monitor LCD o nome da musica que esta tocando * Alimentação: DC 12v -- 24v. * Alimentação do controle remoto: 1 bateria de lithium 3V CR2025 * Consumo de energia: 50 -- 60 mA - DC 12v. * Bitrate: 32 -- 920 Kbps * Freqüência: 87.5 -- 108 Mhz * Relação sinal ruído: 85 db (FM: 65 db) * Alcance de transmissão de até 5 metros * 206 canais de frequência de sintonização em baixa e alta frequência * Display LCD de aprox. 4 cm com iluminação noturna * Ecran LCD: 128x64 pixels * Porta USB padrão para transferência de musicas por Pen Drive * Slot para cartões de memória SD e SDHC * Controles no próprio transmissor * Controle remoto com funções Liga/desliga, Play, Pause, Stop, Volume, Avançar, Retroceder * Tamanho do transmissor: 14 cm X 4,5 cm X 2,5 cm
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